A Thousand Wishes

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.

This branched hydrocarbon is one of the isoparaffins the CIR Expert Panel reviewed and found safe as used in cosmetics, including as an emollient in leave-on face creams. It is generally considered non-comedogenic and used mainly to give a lightweight, non-greasy skin feel.

An undisclosed scent blend that can contain dozens of components. The single most common cause of cosmetic contact allergy, and the blend is not itemized, so you cannot see what is in it.

A fatty alcohol used to soften skin and stabilize creams. Despite the name, it does not dry the skin.

A solvent and emollient ester used in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. The CIR Expert Panel reviewed alkyl benzoates and found no irritation even at full strength, with typical use levels ranging from 0.0008 to 50 percent depending on product type.

A common emulsifier and texture-softener made from glycerin and stearic acid. CIR review of this class found no evidence of reproductive, carcinogenic, sensitizing, or phototoxic effects in the studies examined.

A saturated fatty acid found in palm oil and naturally in the skin, used as an emollient to soften and condition skin. It is one of the most studied fatty acids and is well tolerated.

A naturally occurring fatty acid (also made in the body and found in many foods) used to thicken lotions and help stabilize cleansing bars. It is one of the most well-studied emollient ingredients and is not a meaningful irritant at cosmetic use levels.

A silicone that gives a smooth, soft feel and helps hold water in the skin. Inert and well studied.

A rich, solid-at-room-temperature butter extracted from cocoa seeds, valued for its intense emollient and conditioning properties. While generally well tolerated, it carries a higher likelihood of comedogenicity, so people with acne-prone skin may want to opt for lighter alternatives.

A rich plant butter pressed from shea tree nuts, valued for softening and cushioning dry skin. It is generally well tolerated, though very rare allergic reactions have been reported and people with tree nut allergies who are cautious may want to patch test first.

A widely used preservative, safe at the legal limit of 1% or less. Often the "paraben-free" replacement.

A silicone-based powder used to improve texture and slip in formulas. It is lightweight, absorbs excess moisture, and provides smooth application. Well studied in cosmetics with no skin safety concerns.

A crosslinked acrylic polymer that thickens and stabilizes formulations. Published assessments show it to be well tolerated at cosmetic use levels, with no evidence of penetration into viable skin layers or systemic absorption.

A buffering agent used in small amounts to maintain or adjust the pH of formulas to keep them skin-friendly. It is not added as an active ingredient but to keep the product at a safe and stable pH level.

A PEG-based emulsifier that blends oils and water in formulas. It is a workhorse ingredient in stable emulsions and is approved for cosmetic use. Well tolerated.

A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions to keep formulas stable and preservatives working properly. It is not a functional skincare "active" and only a very small amount is used, with minimal skin penetration expected.

Chlorphenesin is a preservative subject to an EU maximum concentration limit and has been linked to contact dermatitis in a minority of users, particularly with repeated exposure. Most people tolerate it at the regulated use level without issue.

An antioxidant that helps protect a formula and condition skin. Well tolerated.

A glycerin derivative used as a skin conditioner and preservative booster, often paired with phenoxyethanol to allow lower total preservative levels. It has a low irritation and sensitization profile in safety reviews.

A high molecular weight polymer used to thicken and gel aqueous formulas in creams and lotions. Its large size prevents skin penetration, and CIR has confirmed it is safe as used in cosmetics.

A plant-derived water or extract used mainly as a soothing humectant filler. Evidence for dramatic skin benefits beyond mild hydration and soothing is limited, but it is well tolerated by most people.

A humectant that holds water at the skin surface for a more hydrated look. No safety concern.

A synthetic film-forming emollient that provides a protective, flexible layer on skin. Not absorbed and well tolerated with no documented safety issues in cosmetic use.

A widely used emulsifier and solubilizer that has been in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for decades. The CIR has assessed it as safe with no known concerns at typical cosmetic concentrations. As with any surfactant, some people with very sensitive skin may experience mild irritation.

A jasmine-like fragrance compound frequently used in soaps and lotions. It is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens, though studies suggest its sensitization potency is comparatively low relative to other listed allergens.

Benzyl salicylate is a fragrance fixative that also absorbs some UV light. It is on the EU allergen disclosure list, but the evidence suggests it sensitizes fewer people than most other listed fragrance allergens.

Hydroxycitronellal is a lily-of-the-valley scented fragrance ingredient on the EU allergen disclosure list. It has well-documented sensitizing potential in patch-test studies, so it is worth checking the label if you have known fragrance sensitivities.

Alpha-isomethyl ionone is a violet-scented fragrance material and one of the EU-listed allergens requiring label disclosure. Documented sensitization is more common with this ingredient than with many other listed fragrance allergens.

A floral fragrance component and one of the EU-labelled fragrance allergens. Usually fine, worth watching if you react to scented products.

A citrus-scented fragrance component. Fine for most, but it oxidizes over time into a known contact allergen, so it must be labelled in the EU.

A rose-scented fragrance ingredient found naturally in geranium and rose oil. It is one of the 26 fragrance allergens the EU requires to be labeled by name because a minority of people develop skin sensitization to it, though most users tolerate it without issue.

A fragrance fixative and solvent found naturally in balsams and used to help scents last longer. It is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens, with documented but uncommon contact sensitization.

A common preservative and fragrance/solvent ingredient found naturally in many essential oils. It is well tolerated by most people at the levels used in cosmetics, but it is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens and can trigger reactions in people with an existing sensitivity.

A sweet, hay-like fragrance ingredient naturally found in tonka bean and lavender. It is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens and is also subject to an EU maximum concentration limit in finished cosmetic products.