The True Cream Aqua Bomb

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

A light, low-odor glycol used as a solvent and humectant, extremely common in Korean toners and essences. It has a low reported irritation rate and is graded low concern in published assessments.

A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.

A fast-evaporating solvent used to carry actives and give toners a light, "clean" feel; at the concentrations used in classic astringents it can be genuinely drying or irritating with repeated use, especially on dry or compromised skin, though it is not inherently toxic and is a normal, well-studied cosmetic ingredient.

A silicone that gives a smooth, soft feel and helps hold water in the skin. Inert and well studied.

A lightweight, volatile silicone that gives serums and primers their silky slip and quick-evaporating finish. Human safety data are reassuring; the EU restriction on this ingredient in rinse-off products is about environmental persistence in waterways, not skin safety.

A glycol used very widely in Korean and Western skincare as a lightweight humectant, solvent, and gentle preservative-booster, often in place of traditional preservatives. It has a low reported irritation rate at use levels and is graded low concern in published assessments.

A lightweight, odorless emollient made by combining coconut or palm-derived fatty acids with glycerin. It spreads easily, feels non-greasy, and has a long history of use in skin and hair products with no meaningful irritation or sensitization signal.

A multi-ester emollient created from pentaerythritol and ethylhexanoic acid. It provides silky texture and skin conditioning with no documented safety concerns at cosmetic concentrations.

Calendula extract is a traditional soothing botanical used in balms and after-sun formulas with a generally reassuring safety history. Like chamomile, it is part of the Asteraceae family, so cross-reactive contact allergy is possible for people already sensitive to ragweed or related plants.

A humectant that holds water at the skin surface for a more hydrated look. No safety concern.

A form of vitamin B3 used to support a more even-looking tone and a comfortable barrier. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels.

A silicone-based powder used to improve texture and slip in formulas. It is lightweight, absorbs excess moisture, and provides smooth application. Well studied in cosmetics with no skin safety concerns.

A soothing humectant that helps skin and hair look conditioned. Very well tolerated.

A multi-ester emollient derived from pentaerythritol and isostearic acid. It softens and protects skin, with no known safety concerns in cosmetic formulas.

A silicone with phenyl groups that provides conditioning and a refined feel in foundations and color cosmetics. It is inert and well tolerated across skin types.

A rheology modifier that thickens gels and serums while maintaining a lightweight, non-sticky feel. Provides suspension and stability in water-based formulas. Widely used and well tolerated.

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used purely to thicken and stabilize gels and lotions, with negligible skin penetration due to its large molecular size. Safety reviews have found low toxicity and minimal irritation potential even in leave-on use.

A buffering agent used in tiny amounts to set a product's pH, most often alongside gel-forming polymers. It is graded low concern in published assessments at the levels used.

A stable, saturated version of squalene, a lipid the skin already produces, now usually sourced from olives or sugarcane instead of shark liver. It is very well tolerated across skin types and helps reinforce the skin barrier.

Dimethiconol is a silicone emollient closely related to dimethicone, used to add slip and a smooth finish to creams and serums. It shares dimethicone's long-standing safety record and is considered non-sensitizing and non-comedogenic in typical use.

A mixture of fatty alcohols ranging from 14 to 22 carbons, used as emollients and emulsifiers in creams and formulations. The published evidence supports safety at cosmetic levels.

A synthetic surfactant widely used to emulsify oils and water in cosmetics. It is well tolerated and has been used safely in cosmetic formulations for decades.

A lightweight humectant and solvent similar in role to propylene glycol, used to carry actives and give lotions a lighter feel. CIR has reviewed it and considers it safe as used in cosmetics.

A smooth synthetic emollient ester used to soften skin and carry oil-soluble ingredients. It is well tolerated and graded low concern in published assessments.

A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions to keep formulas stable and preservatives working properly. It is not a functional skincare "active" and only a very small amount is used, with minimal skin penetration expected.

A sugar-derived emulsifier that bridges oils and water in skincare formulas. It is gentler and plant-sourced, making it popular in natural and gentle formulations. Well tolerated with no known safety concerns.

A rich plant butter pressed from shea tree nuts, valued for softening and cushioning dry skin. It is generally well tolerated, though very rare allergic reactions have been reported and people with tree nut allergies who are cautious may want to patch test first.

A phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower that binds water and oil and helps other ingredients absorb. It is a natural component of skin membranes, well tolerated, and reviewed as safe as used; a soy-derived grade is not a meaningful concern for a soy food allergy because the protein is largely absent.

A common emulsifier and texture-softener made from glycerin and stearic acid. CIR review of this class found no evidence of reproductive, carcinogenic, sensitizing, or phototoxic effects in the studies examined.

A naturally occurring fatty acid (also made in the body and found in many foods) used to thicken lotions and help stabilize cleansing bars. It is one of the most well-studied emollient ingredients and is not a meaningful irritant at cosmetic use levels.

A lab-made version of a lipid naturally found in the outer skin barrier. It is added to creams and cleansers to help replace lipids that washing can strip away, and it is not linked to irritation or safety concerns.

A waxy sterol found naturally in skin and used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It supports the skin barrier and is well tolerated across skin types.

A PEG-based emulsifier that blends oils and water in formulas. It is a workhorse ingredient in stable emulsions and is approved for cosmetic use. Well tolerated.

Rosemary extract is widely used at low levels as a natural antioxidant to help stabilize oils and extend product shelf life, in addition to appearing as an active botanical in some formulas. It is generally well tolerated, with occasional mild contact reactions reported, mostly at higher leave-on concentrations.

A rose-scented fragrance ingredient found naturally in geranium and rose oil. It is one of the 26 fragrance allergens the EU requires to be labeled by name because a minority of people develop skin sensitization to it, though most users tolerate it without issue.

A citrus-scented fragrance component. Fine for most, but it oxidizes over time into a known contact allergen, so it must be labelled in the EU.

A floral, rose-like fragrance compound found in many essential oils. It is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens, meaning a documented minority of people can develop contact sensitization, so brands must disclose it above set thresholds.

A floral fragrance component and one of the EU-labelled fragrance allergens. Usually fine, worth watching if you react to scented products.