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Paula's Choice · Toners

Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA

$39·30 ml·Leave-on
64
Some concern

Why this score

Concern40 / 55
  • Glycolic Acid: watch if sensitive

How much genuine, cited concern the ingredients carry, weighted by how much of each is likely present and whether the product stays on or rinses off.

Transparency20 / 20
  • No hidden fragrance blend.

Whether the full ingredient list, and any fragrance, are actually disclosed.

Formulation restraint4 / 25
  • 5 known irritant or fragrance-allergen ingredients: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Chamomile, Benzyl Alcohol.

Needless irritant or allergen load for the product type. A clean, purposeful formula scores well without any "free-from" theater.

Scored by PlainBody Editorial against the PlainScore method · Label checked July 2026

What’s inside

WaterGenerally safe

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

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Butylene GlycolCommonly feared, low concern

A lightweight humectant and solvent similar in role to propylene glycol, used to carry actives and give lotions a lighter feel. CIR has reviewed it and considers it safe as used in cosmetics.

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Glycolic AcidWatch if sensitive

The smallest and most penetrating alpha hydroxy acid, used to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells for smoother texture and tone. It is a genuine irritant at higher concentrations or low pH, can increase sun sensitivity, and the EU restricts free acid content and requires sunscreen-use wording on labeling.

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GlycerinGenerally safe

A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.

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Lactic AcidWatch if sensitive

A larger, gentler alpha hydroxy acid than glycolic acid, used to exfoliate and to draw in moisture. It can still cause stinging or increased sun sensitivity at higher concentrations, so daytime SPF use is sensible, but it is generally better tolerated than glycolic acid.

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Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGenerally safe

A lightweight, odorless emollient made by combining coconut or palm-derived fatty acids with glycerin. It spreads easily, feels non-greasy, and has a long history of use in skin and hair products with no meaningful irritation or sensitization signal.

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Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Generally safe

A signal peptide attached to palmitic acid that activates collagen synthesis in skin cells. Well tolerated across skin types with no significant safety concerns in cosmetic use.

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Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Generally safe

A peptide lipid that mimics collagen fragments and signals skin cells to increase collagen production while reducing inflammation. Established in anti-aging formulas with a consistent safety record.

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Ceramide NPGenerally safe

A lab-made version of a lipid naturally found in the outer skin barrier. It is added to creams and cleansers to help replace lipids that washing can strip away, and it is not linked to irritation or safety concerns.

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Salicylic AcidGenerally safe

A beta hydroxy acid used to smooth texture and clear pores. Safe at cosmetic levels; can be mildly irritating if overused.

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Licorice Root ExtractWatch if sensitive

A soothing plant extract traditionally used in skincare, valued for its potential anti-inflammatory properties. Published assessments note it is generally well tolerated in cosmetic formulations, though people with sensitivities to botanicals may want to patch test.

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Green Tea ExtractCommonly feared, low concern

Green tea extract is a well-studied topical antioxidant with a long history of use in serums and moisturizers, generally well tolerated at cosmetic concentrations. Panel safety reviews of Camellia sinensis-derived ingredients have not identified meaningful topical hazard.

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ChamomileWatch if sensitive

Chamomile extract is used for its soothing and mild antioxidant reputation and is generally well tolerated. It belongs to the Asteraceae (Compositae) plant family, so people with a known ragweed or daisy-family allergy occasionally react to it and may want to patch test first.

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AllantoinGenerally safe

A soothing, skin-conditioning compound (also found in comfrey root) commonly added to calm and hydrate irritated or sensitive skin. It has a long history of safe use with very low irritation potential.

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AdenosineGenerally safe

A naturally occurring nucleoside used in anti-aging formulas, often marketed for smoothing the look of fine lines. It has a low irritation profile and no established hazard at cosmetic use levels.

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LecithinGenerally safe

A phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower that binds water and oil and helps other ingredients absorb. It is a natural component of skin membranes, well tolerated, and reviewed as safe as used; a soy-derived grade is not a meaningful concern for a soy food allergy because the protein is largely absent.

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BisabololGenerally safe

Bisabolol is a botanically derived (or synthetically nature-identical) compound used for its calming, anti-irritant reputation in sensitive-skin formulas. Safety reviews and long clinical use have found it well tolerated with a low rate of reported reactions.

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Polyquaternium-10Generally safe

A polymer of quaternary ammonium compounds widely used as a conditioning and antistatic agent in hair products. It is well established in cosmetic formulations with a strong safety record in rinse-off applications.

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Xanthan GumGenerally safe

Xanthan gum is a microbial-fermentation-derived polysaccharide used to thicken and stabilize textures, similarly common in food. Cosmetic panel review of this and related microbial gums found them safe as used, with no meaningful irritation signal at typical concentrations.

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CarbomerGenerally safe

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used purely to thicken and stabilize gels and lotions, with negligible skin penetration due to its large molecular size. Safety reviews have found low toxicity and minimal irritation potential even in leave-on use.

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Polysorbate 20Generally safe

A widely used emulsifier and solubilizer that has been in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for decades. The CIR has assessed it as safe with no known concerns at typical cosmetic concentrations. As with any surfactant, some people with very sensitive skin may experience mild irritation.

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Sodium HydroxideGenerally safe

A strong alkali used in tiny amounts to adjust the pH of cosmetics to safe, skin-friendly levels. At the pH found in finished products, sodium hydroxide is neutralized and well tolerated.

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PhenoxyethanolCommonly feared, low concern

A widely used preservative, safe at the legal limit of 1% or less. Often the "paraben-free" replacement.

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Benzyl AlcoholWatch if sensitive

A common preservative and fragrance/solvent ingredient found naturally in many essential oils. It is well tolerated by most people at the levels used in cosmetics, but it is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens and can trigger reactions in people with an existing sensitivity.

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Lower-concern alternatives

Same category, higher PlainScore.

Cosmetic information for general education, not medical advice. Concern ratings are evidence-graded and cited on each ingredient page. See how we score.