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Centellian24 · Moisturizers

Expert Madeca Cream Active Renew PDRN

$40·50 ml·Leave-on
87
Low concern

Why this score

Concern49 / 55
  • Lavender Oil: watch if sensitive

How much genuine, cited concern the ingredients carry, weighted by how much of each is likely present and whether the product stays on or rinses off.

Transparency20 / 20
  • No hidden fragrance blend.

Whether the full ingredient list, and any fragrance, are actually disclosed.

Formulation restraint18 / 25
  • 4 known irritant or fragrance-allergen ingredients: Lavender Oil, Vitamin C, Limonene, Linalool.

Needless irritant or allergen load for the product type. A clean, purposeful formula scores well without any "free-from" theater.

Scored by PlainBody Editorial against the PlainScore method · Label checked July 2026

What’s inside

WaterGenerally safe

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

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GlycerinGenerally safe

A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.

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Dipropylene GlycolGenerally safe

A light, low-odor glycol used as a solvent and humectant, extremely common in Korean toners and essences. It has a low reported irritation rate and is graded low concern in published assessments.

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Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGenerally safe

A lightweight, odorless emollient made by combining coconut or palm-derived fatty acids with glycerin. It spreads easily, feels non-greasy, and has a long history of use in skin and hair products with no meaningful irritation or sensitization signal.

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Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)Generally safe

A saturated hydrocarbon emollient that softens skin and gives products a smooth glide. Its saturated structure makes it stable and well tolerated. It is inert and carries a low sensitization risk at typical cosmetic use levels.

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Glyceryl StearateGenerally safe

A common emulsifier and texture-softener made from glycerin and stearic acid. CIR review of this class found no evidence of reproductive, carcinogenic, sensitizing, or phototoxic effects in the studies examined.

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Pentaerythrityl TetraethylhexanoateGenerally safe

A multi-ester emollient created from pentaerythritol and ethylhexanoic acid. It provides silky texture and skin conditioning with no documented safety concerns at cosmetic concentrations.

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NiacinamideGenerally safe

A form of vitamin B3 used to support a more even-looking tone and a comfortable barrier. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels.

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Methyl TrimethiconeCommonly feared, low concern

A lightweight silicone that gives a smooth, silky finish to serums and primers. Like other silicones, it is often wrongly feared as pore-clogging; published assessments and dermatology data do not support that concern.

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Vinyl DimethiconeCommonly feared, low concern

A silicone with vinyl groups used in long-wear primers and foundations for enhanced adherence and smoothness. It is inert and well tolerated at cosmetic concentrations.

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Cetearyl AlcoholCommonly feared, low concern

A blend of cetyl and stearyl fatty alcohols used to thicken lotions and soften skin. It is chemically unrelated to drying alcohols like ethanol, and the CIR expert panel has found fatty alcohols safe as used in cosmetics.

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Rosa Damascena Flower WaterWatch if sensitive

A hydrosol from damascena rose flowers, used as a skin toner and fragrance. Rose can trigger allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals, though the hydrosol form is generally well tolerated. People with a history of plant sensitivities should patch test.

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Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateGenerally safe

A mild plant-derived emulsifier combining polyglycerol and lauric acid. Used in gentle formulas to blend oil and water phases; well tolerated across skin types at cosmetic concentrations.

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Sodium PCAGenerally safe

Sodium PCA is a natural component of skin's own moisturizing factor and is used in cosmetics as a humectant to help skin hold onto water. It has an extensive history of safe use with no meaningful irritation or sensitization signal.

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Madecassic AcidGenerally safe

A key active compound from Centella asiatica linked in published research to skin barrier support and soothing properties. It is well tolerated in skincare formulations.

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AsiaticosideGenerally safe

A triterpenoid from Centella asiatica associated in published studies with skin resilience and wound-healing support. It is generally well tolerated in cosmetic concentrations.

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Asiatic AcidGenerally safe

A triterpenoid from Centella asiatica with published research linking it to skin barrier function and calming effects. It appears well tolerated at cosmetic levels.

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Centella AsiaticaGenerally safe

A plant extract long used in traditional wound care and now common in "cica" soothing products, valued for calming redness and supporting the skin barrier. It is generally well tolerated, with rare contact allergy reported.

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GlutathioneGenerally safe

A naturally occurring tripeptide (amino acid compound) that functions as a cellular antioxidant. It is graded low concern in cosmetic assessments, though absorption across intact skin appears limited.

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CaffeineGenerally safe

A natural alkaloid and studied active ingredient in skincare, valued for its antioxidant properties and potential to promote local circulation and reduce puffiness. Topical application results in minimal systemic absorption, graded low concern in regulatory assessments.

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PhytosterolsGenerally safe

Plant-derived sterols that function as emollients and barrier-supporting ingredients found naturally in many botanical sources. They are well tolerated in cosmetic formulations with no known safety concerns at typical use levels.

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Laminaria Japonica ExtractGenerally safe

A seaweed extract containing minerals, polysaccharides, and phenols, used in cosmetics for hydrating and antioxidant claims. It is generally well tolerated, though those with iodine sensitivity should be cautious, as seaweed-derived ingredients contain naturally occurring iodine.

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Aloe VeraGenerally safe

A plant-derived water or extract used mainly as a soothing humectant filler. Evidence for dramatic skin benefits beyond mild hydration and soothing is limited, but it is well tolerated by most people.

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Ulmus Davidiana Root ExtractGenerally safe

An extract from the root of the Ulmus davidiana tree, used in some skincare formulas for soothing and conditioning effects. Published safety data is limited, but the ingredient has not raised signals in cosmetic use.

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Hyaluronic AcidGenerally safe

A humectant that holds water at the skin surface for a more hydrated look. No safety concern.

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Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidGenerally safe

A broken-down form of hyaluronic acid with smaller molecules intended to penetrate more deeply into the skin. It functions as a humectant and is well tolerated, with the same safety profile as standard hyaluronic acid.

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Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateGenerally safe

A lower molecular weight version of hyaluronic acid designed for better skin penetration. It has been extensively studied and shown to support skin hydration and barrier function with excellent tolerability in diverse formulations and skin types.

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Potassium HyaluronateGenerally safe

The potassium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring molecule found in skin that binds moisture. It is graded with no known concerns in cosmetic assessments and is well tolerated across all skin types.

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Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerGenerally safe

A chemically cross-linked form of sodium hyaluronate designed to remain on the skin surface longer and provide sustained hydration. It functions as a humectant and is well tolerated, with the same safety profile as standard hyaluronic acid.

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Hydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronateGenerally safe

A quaternized derivative of hyaluronic acid that combines hydration and film-forming benefits for enhanced moisturizing effects. It is documented in cosmetic use as well tolerated, though people sensitive to quaternary ammonium compounds may want to perform a patch test.

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Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateGenerally safe

A chemically modified form of hyaluronic acid that improves stability and penetration in skincare formulations. Clinical assessments show it hydrates skin effectively and is well tolerated across sensitive and normal skin types.

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PanthenolGenerally safe

A soothing humectant that helps skin and hair look conditioned. Very well tolerated.

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Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateGenerally safe

An amino acid derived emulsifier made from stearic acid and glutamic acid that is increasingly used in natural and clean formulations. It is mild, biodegradable, and presents no known safety concerns for cosmetic use.

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Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateGenerally safe

A synthetic polymer derived from acrylic acid and taurine amino acid that stabilizes emulsions and thickens formulas. Direct human data is limited, but no adverse effects have been reported and it is considered safe for topical use.

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Butylene GlycolCommonly feared, low concern

A lightweight humectant and solvent similar in role to propylene glycol, used to carry actives and give lotions a lighter feel. CIR has reviewed it and considers it safe as used in cosmetics.

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Jojoba EstersGenerally safe

A wax ester derived from jojoba oil that closely resembles the skin's own sebum esters, used to soften and smooth skin. Available safety data has not flagged meaningful irritation or sensitization risk at cosmetic use levels.

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HydroxyacetophenoneGenerally safe

A preservative and antioxidant that helps prevent microbial growth and oxidative degradation in formulas. Published assessments support its use at cosmetic levels.

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Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerGenerally safe

A rheology modifier that thickens gels and serums while maintaining a lightweight, non-sticky feel. Provides suspension and stability in water-based formulas. Widely used and well tolerated.

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Cetyl AlcoholCommonly feared, low concern

A fatty alcohol used to soften skin and stabilize creams. Despite the name, it does not dry the skin.

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Stearyl AlcoholGenerally safe

A fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid that thickens creams and gives them a smooth, non-greasy glide. It is one of the fatty alcohols the CIR panel reviewed together and found safe as used, with a very low reported rate of contact sensitization.

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Behenyl AlcoholCommonly feared, low concern

A long-chain fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilize creams and soften skin. It is a waxy emollient, not a drying solvent, and is graded low concern in published assessments.

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Sunflower OilGenerally safe

A linoleic-acid-rich plant oil used as an emollient and, in some small pediatric studies, associated with support of the skin barrier when applied to infant skin. It is well tolerated with a low reported rate of contact reactions.

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Coptis Japonica Root ExtractWatch if sensitive

A traditional East Asian medicinal extract containing berberine and other alkaloids, used in cosmetics for antimicrobial and antioxidant claims. Modern cosmetic safety data is limited; it is generally reported as well tolerated, though patch testing is advisable for those with a history of contact sensitivity to botanicals.

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EthylhexylglycerinGenerally safe

A glycerin derivative used as a skin conditioner and preservative booster, often paired with phenoxyethanol to allow lower total preservative levels. It has a low irritation and sensitization profile in safety reviews.

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Lavender OilWatch if sensitive

Lavender essential oil naturally contains linalool, geraniol, and coumarin, several of the recognized fragrance allergen constituents, so it can trigger contact reactions in fragrance-sensitive users even though it is a "natural" ingredient. It is not a general hazard for most people, but those with a known fragrance allergy should treat it like any other essential oil.

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Olive Fruit OilGenerally safe

Cold-pressed oil from olive fruit, valued as a carrier and emollient in skincare formulas. Well tolerated across skin types and delivers fatty acids that support skin barrier integrity.

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Xanthan GumGenerally safe

Xanthan gum is a microbial-fermentation-derived polysaccharide used to thicken and stabilize textures, similarly common in food. Cosmetic panel review of this and related microbial gums found them safe as used, with no meaningful irritation signal at typical concentrations.

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Rosemary Leaf ExtractWatch if sensitive

An aromatic plant extract rich in natural antioxidants, valued in skincare formulations for its protective properties. Published cosmetic assessments indicate it is generally well tolerated, though the botanical origin means some sensitive individuals may react.

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Disodium EDTACommonly feared, low concern

A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions to keep formulas stable and preservatives working properly. It is not a functional skincare "active" and only a very small amount is used, with minimal skin penetration expected.

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AdenosineGenerally safe

A naturally occurring nucleoside used in anti-aging formulas, often marketed for smoothing the look of fine lines. It has a low irritation profile and no established hazard at cosmetic use levels.

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Sorbitan IsostearateGenerally safe

An emulsifier made from sorbitol and isostearic acid, used to stabilize oil-in-water formulas. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel assessed it as safe for cosmetic use at typical concentrations.

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Polyglycerin-3Generally safe

A humectant derived from glycerin, used to attract and retain moisture in cosmetic formulas. Evidence from cosmetic use indicates it is well-tolerated and produces minimal sensitization even on sensitive skin.

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CyanocobalaminGenerally safe

Vitamin B12 used in cosmetics for its purported skin-conditioning and nutritional benefits. It is established as safe for topical use with no known hazards or sensitization concerns at concentrations typically used in skincare.

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Vitamin CWatch if sensitive

The most well-studied form of topical vitamin C, used as an antioxidant and to support collagen signaling and brighten uneven tone. It is acidic and can sting or irritate sensitive skin, and it oxidizes readily once a bottle is opened, which can reduce its effectiveness rather than create a safety issue.

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Vitamin EGenerally safe

An antioxidant that helps protect a formula and condition skin. Well tolerated.

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Ceramide NPGenerally safe

A lab-made version of a lipid naturally found in the outer skin barrier. It is added to creams and cleansers to help replace lipids that washing can strip away, and it is not linked to irritation or safety concerns.

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PhytosphingosineGenerally safe

A plant-derived lipid precursor found naturally in skin that supports barrier function and lipid composition. It is used in skincare formulations to strengthen the stratum corneum and is documented as well tolerated, though rare individual sensitivities may occur.

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LecithinGenerally safe

A phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower that binds water and oil and helps other ingredients absorb. It is a natural component of skin membranes, well tolerated, and reviewed as safe as used; a soy-derived grade is not a meaningful concern for a soy food allergy because the protein is largely absent.

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Hydrolyzed KeratinGenerally safe

A protein fragment derived from animal keratin that helps hair retain moisture and improves strength and shine. It is well tolerated across hair types and does not carry the allergen risk of plant-derived hydrolyzed proteins.

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GlycineGenerally safe

The simplest amino acid, naturally present in skin and collagen, commonly used as a humectant to help retain moisture. It has a long history of safe use in cosmetics with no known hazards at typical concentrations.

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Glutamic AcidGenerally safe

An amino acid widely used in cosmetics for skin conditioning and moisture retention. It is well-studied and well-tolerated across skin types at cosmetic use levels.

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ArginineGenerally safe

A basic amino acid naturally found in skin that draws moisture into the stratum corneum. It is well tolerated in cosmetics at typical concentrations and has been used safely in skincare formulations for decades.

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LimoneneWatch if sensitive

A citrus-scented fragrance component. Fine for most, but it oxidizes over time into a known contact allergen, so it must be labelled in the EU.

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LinaloolWatch if sensitive

A floral fragrance component and one of the EU-labelled fragrance allergens. Usually fine, worth watching if you react to scented products.

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Lower-concern alternatives

Same category, higher PlainScore.

Cosmetic information for general education, not medical advice. Concern ratings are evidence-graded and cited on each ingredient page. See how we score.