Clarifying Azelaic Acid 20% Cream
Why this score
Concern52 / 55
- No ingredients carry meaningful, evidence-backed concern.
How much genuine, cited concern the ingredients carry, weighted by how much of each is likely present and whether the product stays on or rinses off.
Transparency20 / 20
- No hidden fragrance blend.
Whether the full ingredient list, and any fragrance, are actually disclosed.
Formulation restraint17 / 25
- 1 known irritant or fragrance-allergen ingredient: Azelaic Acid.
Needless irritant or allergen load for the product type. A clean, purposeful formula scores well without any "free-from" theater.
Scored by PlainBody Editorial against the PlainScore method · Label checked July 2026
What’s inside
WaterGenerally safe
The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.
Full ingredient details →Azelaic AcidWatch if sensitive
A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid used to even tone and calm breakout-prone or redness-prone skin, also available at higher strengths by prescription. It is well tolerated overall, though mild tingling or dryness can occur when starting use.
Full ingredient details →PropanediolGenerally safe
A corn-derived solvent and humectant that has largely replaced propylene glycol in "clean" formulas; CIR reviewed the alkane diol group and found use concentrations up to about 40 percent in leave-on products like deodorant sticks with no meaningful irritation signal.
Full ingredient details →SqualaneGenerally safe
A stable, saturated version of squalene, a lipid the skin already produces, now usually sourced from olives or sugarcane instead of shark liver. It is very well tolerated across skin types and helps reinforce the skin barrier.
Full ingredient details →DimethiconeCommonly feared, low concern
A silicone that gives a smooth, soft feel and helps hold water in the skin. Inert and well studied.
Full ingredient details →GlycerinGenerally safe
A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.
Full ingredient details →Glyceryl StearateGenerally safe
A common emulsifier and texture-softener made from glycerin and stearic acid. CIR review of this class found no evidence of reproductive, carcinogenic, sensitizing, or phototoxic effects in the studies examined.
Full ingredient details →PhenoxyethanolCommonly feared, low concern
A widely used preservative, safe at the legal limit of 1% or less. Often the "paraben-free" replacement.
Full ingredient details →Cetyl AlcoholCommonly feared, low concern
A fatty alcohol used to soften skin and stabilize creams. Despite the name, it does not dry the skin.
Full ingredient details →Tocopheryl AcetateCommonly feared, low concern
A more stable, esterified form of vitamin E used as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient. It is a different substance from the vitamin E acetate implicated in vaping-related lung injury, which involved inhaling the oil, not applying it topically to skin.
Full ingredient details →Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerGenerally safe
A crosslinked acrylic polymer that thickens and stabilizes formulations. Published assessments show it to be well tolerated at cosmetic use levels, with no evidence of penetration into viable skin layers or systemic absorption.
Full ingredient details →Sodium Lauroyl LactylateGenerally safe
A mild surfactant and emulsifier made from lactic acid and lauric acid. The lactate component makes it less irritating than many other surfactants; generally well tolerated in both rinse-off and leave-on formulas.
Full ingredient details →Sodium HydroxideGenerally safe
A strong alkali used in tiny amounts to adjust the pH of cosmetics to safe, skin-friendly levels. At the pH found in finished products, sodium hydroxide is neutralized and well tolerated.
Full ingredient details →Ceramide NPGenerally safe
A lab-made version of a lipid naturally found in the outer skin barrier. It is added to creams and cleansers to help replace lipids that washing can strip away, and it is not linked to irritation or safety concerns.
Full ingredient details →Ceramide APGenerally safe
One of the three major ceramides naturally found in human skin. Ceramide AP plays a critical role in maintaining the skin barrier and is extensively studied as a safe, essential ingredient. It is derived synthetically or from plant sources.
Full ingredient details →PhytosphingosineGenerally safe
A plant-derived lipid precursor found naturally in skin that supports barrier function and lipid composition. It is used in skincare formulations to strengthen the stratum corneum and is documented as well tolerated, though rare individual sensitivities may occur.
Full ingredient details →CholesterolGenerally safe
A waxy sterol found naturally in skin and used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It supports the skin barrier and is well tolerated across skin types.
Full ingredient details →CarbomerGenerally safe
Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used purely to thicken and stabilize gels and lotions, with negligible skin penetration due to its large molecular size. Safety reviews have found low toxicity and minimal irritation potential even in leave-on use.
Full ingredient details →Xanthan GumGenerally safe
Xanthan gum is a microbial-fermentation-derived polysaccharide used to thicken and stabilize textures, similarly common in food. Cosmetic panel review of this and related microbial gums found them safe as used, with no meaningful irritation signal at typical concentrations.
Full ingredient details →Ceramide EOPGenerally safe
A key structural lipid naturally found in healthy skin that reinforces the barrier and improves hydration. It is well established in skincare formulations and assessed as having excellent safety across all skin types, including sensitive and compromised barriers.
Full ingredient details →Lower-concern alternatives
Same category, higher PlainScore.
- 100⇄The OrdinaryNiacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
- 100⇄The OrdinaryHyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
- 100⇄CeraVeHydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
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Cosmetic information for general education, not medical advice. Concern ratings are evidence-graded and cited on each ingredient page. See how we score.