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Sesderma · Serums

Acglicolic Facial Serum

$84·30 ml·Leave-on
53
Notable concern

Why this score

Concern36 / 55
  • Glycolic Acid: watch if sensitive
  • Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone: watch if sensitive
  • Fragrance: watch if sensitive

How much genuine, cited concern the ingredients carry, weighted by how much of each is likely present and whether the product stays on or rinses off.

Transparency12 / 20
  • Uses an undisclosed "fragrance/parfum" blend, so its scent allergens are hidden.

Whether the full ingredient list, and any fragrance, are actually disclosed.

Formulation restraint5 / 25
  • 7 known irritant or fragrance-allergen ingredients: Glycolic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Fragrance.

Needless irritant or allergen load for the product type. A clean, purposeful formula scores well without any "free-from" theater.

Scored by PlainBody Editorial against the PlainScore method · Label checked July 2026

What’s inside

WaterGenerally safe

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

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Glycolic AcidWatch if sensitive

The smallest and most penetrating alpha hydroxy acid, used to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells for smoother texture and tone. It is a genuine irritant at higher concentrations or low pH, can increase sun sensitivity, and the EU restricts free acid content and requires sunscreen-use wording on labeling.

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Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneGenerally safe

A silicone-based conditioning agent that improves slip and spreadability in formulas while hydrating the skin surface. Silicones in cosmetics are inert, non-absorbable, and rinse away cleanly.

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Hydrogenated PolydeceneGenerally safe

A light synthetic emollient that gives creams a smooth, non-greasy slip, a common alternative to mineral oil in Korean formulas. It sits on the skin surface and is graded low concern in published assessments.

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PropanediolGenerally safe

A corn-derived solvent and humectant that has largely replaced propylene glycol in "clean" formulas; CIR reviewed the alkane diol group and found use concentrations up to about 40 percent in leave-on products like deodorant sticks with no meaningful irritation signal.

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C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateGenerally safe

A solvent and emollient ester used in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. The CIR Expert Panel reviewed alkyl benzoates and found no irritation even at full strength, with typical use levels ranging from 0.0008 to 50 percent depending on product type.

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Glyceryl StearateGenerally safe

A common emulsifier and texture-softener made from glycerin and stearic acid. CIR review of this class found no evidence of reproductive, carcinogenic, sensitizing, or phototoxic effects in the studies examined.

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CyclopentasiloxaneCommonly feared, low concern

A lightweight, volatile silicone that gives serums and primers their silky slip and quick-evaporating finish. Human safety data are reassuring; the EU restriction on this ingredient in rinse-off products is about environmental persistence in waterways, not skin safety.

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Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerGenerally safe

A synthetic polymer used to thicken and stabilize water-based formulas like gels and serums. It provides texture and suspension of particles without interfering with skin feel. Well established in cosmetics.

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Alcohol Denat.Watch if sensitive

A fast-evaporating solvent used to carry actives and give toners a light, "clean" feel; at the concentrations used in classic astringents it can be genuinely drying or irritating with repeated use, especially on dry or compromised skin, though it is not inherently toxic and is a normal, well-studied cosmetic ingredient.

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Alpha-Isomethyl IononeWatch if sensitive

Alpha-isomethyl ionone is a violet-scented fragrance material and one of the EU-listed allergens requiring label disclosure. Documented sensitization is more common with this ingredient than with many other listed fragrance allergens.

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Ascorbyl GlucosideGenerally safe

A gentle, stable vitamin C derivative that the skin converts to active vitamin C, popular for brightening with less irritation than pure ascorbic acid. It is well tolerated and graded low concern in published assessments.

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Benzyl SalicylateWatch if sensitive

Benzyl salicylate is a fragrance fixative that also absorbs some UV light. It is on the EU allergen disclosure list, but the evidence suggests it sensitizes fewer people than most other listed fragrance allergens.

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CarbomerGenerally safe

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used purely to thicken and stabilize gels and lotions, with negligible skin penetration due to its large molecular size. Safety reviews have found low toxicity and minimal irritation potential even in leave-on use.

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Ceramide APGenerally safe

One of the three major ceramides naturally found in human skin. Ceramide AP plays a critical role in maintaining the skin barrier and is extensively studied as a safe, essential ingredient. It is derived synthetically or from plant sources.

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Ceramide EOPGenerally safe

A key structural lipid naturally found in healthy skin that reinforces the barrier and improves hydration. It is well established in skincare formulations and assessed as having excellent safety across all skin types, including sensitive and compromised barriers.

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Ceramide NPGenerally safe

A lab-made version of a lipid naturally found in the outer skin barrier. It is added to creams and cleansers to help replace lipids that washing can strip away, and it is not linked to irritation or safety concerns.

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Cetearyl AlcoholCommonly feared, low concern

A blend of cetyl and stearyl fatty alcohols used to thicken lotions and soften skin. It is chemically unrelated to drying alcohols like ethanol, and the CIR expert panel has found fatty alcohols safe as used in cosmetics.

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CholesterolGenerally safe

A waxy sterol found naturally in skin and used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It supports the skin barrier and is well tolerated across skin types.

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Dipropylene GlycolGenerally safe

A light, low-odor glycol used as a solvent and humectant, extremely common in Korean toners and essences. It has a low reported irritation rate and is graded low concern in published assessments.

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Disodium EDTACommonly feared, low concern

A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions to keep formulas stable and preservatives working properly. It is not a functional skincare "active" and only a very small amount is used, with minimal skin penetration expected.

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ErgothioneineGenerally safe

An amino acid antioxidant found naturally in mushrooms and some bacteria, emerging in cosmetics for its free-radical quenching properties. Limited human cosmetic studies exist, but ergothioneine is well tolerated in food and supplement forms, with low hazard potential indicated in available assessments.

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MethylparabenCommonly feared, low concern

A preservative that keeps products free of mold and bacteria. Reviewed repeatedly and considered safe at the low levels used.

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Hexyl CinnamalWatch if sensitive

A jasmine-like fragrance compound frequently used in soaps and lotions. It is one of the 26 EU-designated fragrance allergens, though studies suggest its sensitization potency is comparatively low relative to other listed allergens.

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LecithinGenerally safe

A phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower that binds water and oil and helps other ingredients absorb. It is a natural component of skin membranes, well tolerated, and reviewed as safe as used; a soy-derived grade is not a meaningful concern for a soy food allergy because the protein is largely absent.

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LimoneneWatch if sensitive

A citrus-scented fragrance component. Fine for most, but it oxidizes over time into a known contact allergen, so it must be labelled in the EU.

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FragranceWatch if sensitive

An undisclosed scent blend that can contain dozens of components. The single most common cause of cosmetic contact allergy, and the blend is not itemized, so you cannot see what is in it.

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PhenoxyethanolCommonly feared, low concern

A widely used preservative, safe at the legal limit of 1% or less. Often the "paraben-free" replacement.

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PhytosphingosineGenerally safe

A plant-derived lipid precursor found naturally in skin that supports barrier function and lipid composition. It is used in skincare formulations to strengthen the stratum corneum and is documented as well tolerated, though rare individual sensitivities may occur.

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Polysorbate 20Generally safe

A widely used emulsifier and solubilizer that has been in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for decades. The CIR has assessed it as safe with no known concerns at typical cosmetic concentrations. As with any surfactant, some people with very sensitive skin may experience mild irritation.

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Propylene GlycolCommonly feared, low concern

A small humectant and solvent molecule that helps other ingredients dissolve and helps skin hold water. It is one of the most studied cosmetic ingredients and is considered safe at the concentrations used in personal care products.

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PropylparabenCommonly feared, low concern

A member of the paraben family used to prevent microbial growth in cosmetics. Like methylparaben, it has been reviewed extensively and found safe at the concentrations used in leave-on and rinse-off products.

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Sodium ChlorideCommonly feared, low concern

Ordinary salt, used in surfactant-based products like shampoos and body washes to adjust viscosity by interacting with the surfactant micelles. It has no meaningful toxicity concern at cosmetic use levels; the main practical downside is that too much can make a formula feel less mild.

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Hyaluronic AcidGenerally safe

A humectant that holds water at the skin surface for a more hydrated look. No safety concern.

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Sodium HydroxideGenerally safe

A strong alkali used in tiny amounts to adjust the pH of cosmetics to safe, skin-friendly levels. At the pH found in finished products, sodium hydroxide is neutralized and well tolerated.

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Sodium Lauroyl LactylateGenerally safe

A mild surfactant and emulsifier made from lactic acid and lauric acid. The lactate component makes it less irritating than many other surfactants; generally well tolerated in both rinse-off and leave-on formulas.

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Tocopheryl AcetateCommonly feared, low concern

A more stable, esterified form of vitamin E used as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient. It is a different substance from the vitamin E acetate implicated in vaping-related lung injury, which involved inhaling the oil, not applying it topically to skin.

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Xanthan GumGenerally safe

Xanthan gum is a microbial-fermentation-derived polysaccharide used to thicken and stabilize textures, similarly common in food. Cosmetic panel review of this and related microbial gums found them safe as used, with no meaningful irritation signal at typical concentrations.

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Note: this product hides its scent as an undisclosed “fragrance/parfum” blend, so its specific allergens are not on the label.

Lower-concern alternatives

Same category, higher PlainScore.

Cosmetic information for general education, not medical advice. Concern ratings are evidence-graded and cited on each ingredient page. See how we score.