The Silk Canvas

A silicone that gives a smooth, soft feel and helps hold water in the skin. Inert and well studied.

The base most products are built on. It carries the other ingredients and has no safety concern.

A humectant that draws water into the skin. One of the best-studied, best-tolerated ingredients in personal care.

A yeast-fermented rice ingredient used in skincare formulations for hydration and conditioning. No safety concerns documented at cosmetic use levels.

A synthetic polymer used to create film-forming serums and gels. It is stable, non-irritating, and widely used in cosmetic formulations to improve texture and adherence without toxicological concerns.

A corn-derived solvent and humectant that has largely replaced propylene glycol in "clean" formulas; CIR reviewed the alkane diol group and found use concentrations up to about 40 percent in leave-on products like deodorant sticks with no meaningful irritation signal.

A refined mineral wax used to firm up ointment and balm texture and help form an occlusive barrier alongside petrolatum. Highly refined cosmetic-grade mineral waxes have long been reviewed as inert at the concentrations used in personal care products.

A stable, saturated version of squalene, a lipid the skin already produces, now usually sourced from olives or sugarcane instead of shark liver. It is very well tolerated across skin types and helps reinforce the skin barrier.

An undisclosed scent blend that can contain dozens of components. The single most common cause of cosmetic contact allergy, and the blend is not itemized, so you cannot see what is in it.

Green tea extract is a well-studied topical antioxidant with a long history of use in serums and moisturizers, generally well tolerated at cosmetic concentrations. Panel safety reviews of Camellia sinensis-derived ingredients have not identified meaningful topical hazard.

Brown seaweed extract (mozuku) rich in polysaccharides and antioxidants. Established cosmetic ingredient with no widespread safety concerns or known sensitization issues.

An antioxidant that helps protect a formula and condition skin. Well tolerated.

A polysaccharide produced through fermentation that thickens formulations and provides hydration. It is used across rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics with a low irritation profile, though very rare sensitivities to fermented polysaccharides have been documented.

A polyol ester emulsifier that stabilizes water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions with minimal irritation. Like other polyglyceryl esters, it is valued for its mildness and is used across a range of skincare and color cosmetics.

A long-chain quaternary ammonium compound used in small amounts in lotions to stabilize the emulsion and improve slip. Cationic conditioning agents in this family have a long cosmetic-use history without a notable irritation signal in the published record, though as with any ingredient it can rarely trigger sensitivity in already-irritated skin.

A mineral thickener and anti-caking agent widely used in sunscreens and cosmetics to control texture and prevent ingredient separation. CIR has reviewed silica in cosmetic use and found no basis for concern at the levels used topically.

An inert mineral powder used as a filler and white base for color cosmetics. It is not the same as the antiperspirant aluminum compounds that trigger health concerns. Well tolerated and FDA-approved for cosmetic use.

A glycerin derivative used as a skin conditioner and preservative booster, often paired with phenoxyethanol to allow lower total preservative levels. It has a low irritation and sensitization profile in safety reviews.

A light, low-odor glycol used as a solvent and humectant, extremely common in Korean toners and essences. It has a low reported irritation rate and is graded low concern in published assessments.

Caprylyl glycol is a plant-derived humectant that also has mild antimicrobial properties, so it is commonly paired with other preservatives to allow lower overall preservative levels. Available data do not point to meaningful irritation or sensitization concerns at typical use levels.

A salt derived from citric acid that buffers pH and prevents metal oxidation in formulas. Widely used in food and cosmetics, it is well tolerated at cosmetic concentrations.

A naturally occurring fatty acid (also made in the body and found in many foods) used to thicken lotions and help stabilize cleansing bars. It is one of the most well-studied emollient ingredients and is not a meaningful irritant at cosmetic use levels.

A widely used preservative, safe at the legal limit of 1% or less. Often the "paraben-free" replacement.

A fast-evaporating solvent used to carry actives and create a light, quick-drying texture in toners and washes. At the concentrations used in rinse-off and brief-contact formulas, it has a well-established safety record, though repeated contact with high-concentration formulas can be drying.

A citrus-scented fragrance component. Fine for most, but it oxidizes over time into a known contact allergen, so it must be labelled in the EU.

A floral fragrance component and one of the EU-labelled fragrance allergens. Usually fine, worth watching if you react to scented products.

A natural fragrance component found in citrus oils and lemongrass, giving a lemony scent. It is a named EU fragrance allergen that can oxidize into potent contact allergens over time; people with known fragrance sensitivities may react.

A mineral UV filter and white pigment used in sunscreens and makeup. It sits on the skin surface rather than being absorbed, and major regulators consider it safe for topical cosmetic use.

A mineral pigment used to add opacity and soft-focus effects in cosmetics. FDA-approved for cosmetic use and graded low concern in published safety assessments.

Mineral pigments used to add color to cosmetics. Iron oxides are FDA-approved colorants with a well-established safety record in cosmetic formulations.